In 1922, the year Myrurgia launched "Besame," Spain was experiencing a cultural revival intertwined with its rich history of Moorish influence and a fascination with Orientalism. This period marked a reawakening of interest in Spain's Islamic heritage, which had deeply influenced its art, architecture, and even its language over centuries of Moorish rule. The Alhambra in Granada, for instance, stood as a testament to this fusion of Moorish and Spanish cultures, captivating imaginations with its intricate designs and lush gardens.
Orientalism, a trend romanticizing Eastern cultures and aesthetics, was at its peak during this time across Europe. Spain, with its proximity to North Africa and historical ties to the Moorish world, particularly embraced this fascination. Films of the era often depicted exotic settings and themes influenced by Orientalist fantasies, showcasing a blend of mystery, sensuality, and luxury.
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Myrurgia's choice of the name "Besame" for its perfume reflects this cultural milieu. In Spanish, "Besame" translates to "kiss me," evoking notions of romance, passion, and allure. Such a name would resonate deeply with women of the time period, inviting them to indulge in fantasies of seduction and elegance.
For women in the 1920s, a perfume named "Besame" would symbolize sophistication and sensuality. It would be seen as more than just a fragrance; it would embody an essence of allure and femininity, aligning with the liberated spirit of the Roaring Twenties.
The word "Besame" itself conjures images of intimacy, whispering secrets, and moments of closeness. It suggests a perfume that not only enhances one's personal allure but also invites connection and romance.
In the context of the perfume industry of the 1920s, "Besame" would indeed stand out as a unique name. Its Spanish origin and evocative meaning would differentiate it from other perfumes of the time, appealing to women seeking sophistication and mystery.
The packaging of Besame, styled after antique Persian miniatures, further deepens its Orientalist appeal. This aesthetic choice aligns with Spain's fascination with Orientalism, drawing on the exoticism and luxury associated with Eastern cultures.
Overall, "Besame" by Myrurgia encapsulates the spirit of its time—a blend of Moorish heritage, European Orientalism, and the burgeoning sensibilities of the early 20th century. It represents more than just a perfume; it embodies a cultural and historical moment, inviting women to embrace their allure and indulge in the fantasies of a bygone era.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as an amber (oriental) fragrance for women.
- Top notes: neroli, bergamot, reseda, geranium
- Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, patchouli, orris
- Base notes: ambergris, Ambreine, French rock rose, musk, vetiver, civet, vanilla, oakmoss, tonka bean, styrax, benzoin, ambrette
Scent Profile:
As you wander through the enchanting gardens of the Alhambra, the air is imbued with a myriad of scents, each one evoking a layer of its storied past. The top notes of Myrurgia's "Besame" perfume dance on the breeze: first, the bright and citrusy essence of neroli and bergamot. Close your eyes and inhale deeply; the neroli's floral sweetness intertwines with the bergamot's crisp zest, reminiscent of sun-drenched Mediterranean groves. Alongside, the green freshness of reseda and the delicate floral hint of geranium add depth and complexity, evoking the lush greenery that surrounds you.
As you meander further into the heart of the gardens, the middle notes of "Besame" begin to unfold like petals in bloom. Carnation and rose intermingle, their velvety textures and spicy-sweet aromas filling the air with a sense of timeless elegance. Jasmine and orange blossom add a heady, intoxicating fragrance, their floral richness enveloping you in a cloud of opulence. Patchouli and orris lend an earthy warmth, grounding the bouquet with a hint of mystique, reminiscent of the Alhambra's ancient walls steeped in history.
As you reach the tranquil fountains that dot the landscape, the base notes of "Besame" emerge, lingering like whispers of secrets from centuries past. Ambergris and Ambreine create a luxurious, animalic accord that speaks of distant voyages and exotic treasures. French rock rose and musk add a sensual depth, their musky undertones mingling with the earthy vetiver and the primal allure of civet. Vanilla and tonka bean infuse a creamy sweetness, while oakmoss and styrax impart a mossy, woody richness. Benzoin and ambrette provide a resinous, slightly powdery finish, leaving a lingering impression of sophistication and allure.
As you gently touch the leaves of an ancient tree, you feel a connection to the Alhambra's storied past. The fragrance of "Besame" surrounds you like a veil of memories, each note a testament to the intricate beauty of this historical monument. In this timeless setting, where the echoes of Moorish artisans and Spanish nobility still whisper through the corridors, "Besame" by Myrurgia captures the essence of a bygone era—a fragrance that evokes the romance, mystery, and splendor of the Alhambra and its gardens.
Bottles:
The deluxe flacon of Besame, meticulously designed by Julien Viard, stands as a miniature work of art in its own right. Standing at a modest height of 3.5 inches, its compact size belies the richness of its adornments. The glass itself is adorned with stylized foliage motifs, meticulously crafted to evoke the opulent beauty of the Orient. Each delicate leaf and tendril seems to dance across the surface, capturing the essence of nature in a symphony of glass and light.
Atop the flacon rests a stopper that mirrors the intricacy of the bottle's design. A stylized floral decoration crowns the stopper, its petals unfurling in graceful arcs. The floral motif, characteristic of Art Nouveau elegance, adds a touch of femininity and refinement to the overall composition. As one gazes upon the flacon and its stopper, there is an undeniable sense of harmony between form and function, where beauty meets utility in the world of perfume craftsmanship.
The presentation box that houses Besame is no less exquisite. Decorated with panels that mimic antique Persian miniatures, the box transports the beholder to a realm of artistic splendor. Each panel is a masterpiece in miniature, capturing scenes of courtly life, lush gardens, and poetic landscapes with a finesse that echoes the cultural exchange between East and West. The intricate detailing and vibrant colors of these panels elevate the presentation of Besame beyond mere packaging; they transform it into a treasure chest of dreams and fantasies.
As one examines the close-ups of these panels, three distinct scenes unfold. In one, figures clad in silken robes engage in lively conversation amidst verdant gardens, their gestures hinting at tales of love and intrigue. Another panel depicts a tranquil pond reflecting the azure sky above, surrounded by blossoming trees and fluttering birds—a moment frozen in time, serene yet alive with the promise of spring. The third panel captures a moonlit night, where shadows play upon ancient walls adorned with intricate arabesques, invoking a sense of mystery and wonder.
Together, the flacon, stopper, and presentation box of Besame by Myrurgia weave a tapestry of sensory delights and visual splendor. They encapsulate not just a perfume, but a journey through time and culture, where craftsmanship and artistry converge to create an enduring testament to beauty and allure.
Other Bottles:
Fate of the Fragrance:
The perfume "Besame" by Myrurgia, though discontinued, retains an air of mystery surrounding its departure from the fragrance world. The exact date of its discontinuation remains elusive, shrouded in the passage of time and the evolution of perfume trends. However, historical records indicate that "Besame" continued to grace perfume counters as late as 1939, suggesting its enduring popularity well into the early 20th century.
Despite its eventual discontinuation, "Besame" left an indelible mark on the olfactory landscape of its era. Its allure, crafted with meticulous attention to detail and housed in a flacon designed by Julien Viard, spoke to the sophistication and taste of its time. The fact that it remained available for purchase until at least 1939 attests to its enduring appeal and the fondness with which it was regarded by connoisseurs of fine perfumery.
In retrospect, the legacy of "Besame" extends beyond its composition of neroli, bergamot, rose, and other notes. It embodies a fleeting yet poignant chapter in the history of perfumery, where each spray evoked memories of gardens, moonlit nights, and the embrace of Orientalist aesthetics. Though no longer in production, "Besame" continues to linger in the collective memory of perfume enthusiasts, a testament to its timeless elegance and the artistry of its creators at Myrurgia.
Today, the Julien Viard flacon that once held "Besame" by Myrurgia has become a coveted collector's item, sought after for its exquisite craftsmanship and historical significance. Its rarity adds to its allure, making it a prized find among aficionados of vintage perfume bottles and art nouveau enthusiasts alike. The stylized foliage motifs and floral decorations that adorn the flacon and stopper speak to an era of meticulous design and luxury.
Equally scarce is the accompanying presentation box, decorated with panels that mimic antique Persian miniatures. These panels, depicting scenes of courtly life and poetic landscapes, elevate the packaging of "Besame" beyond mere protection for the perfume; they transform it into a display piece worthy of admiration in its own right. The combination of the flacon and its ornate box creates a complete sensory experience, invoking the elegance and opulence of a bygone era.
Due to their rarity, encountering a Julien Viard flacon or the complete set with its presentation box on the market today is a rare occurrence. When they do appear, collectors and enthusiasts can expect to pay exorbitant sums to acquire these pieces of perfume history. The price reflects not only the material value but also the cultural and artistic significance that these artifacts embody, preserving a legacy of beauty and craftsmanship for generations to come.
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