Suspiro de Granada by Myrurgia c1922

In 1922, the year "Suspiro de Granada" was launched by Myrurgia, Spain was immersed in a fascinating period of cultural revival known as the "Silver Age," characterized by a resurgence of arts and literature. Granada, a city steeped in rich history, was at the heart of this romantic era. Known for its magnificent Alhambra palace, Granada symbolized the pinnacle of Moorish architecture in Spain. The city's gardens, such as those in the Generalife, were famous for their lush flora, including jasmine and roses, which infused the air with delicate fragrances.

During this time, the allure of Granada inspired numerous artists, writers, and filmmakers. Works like Washington Irving's "Tales of the Alhambra" (1832) had already established Granada as a mythical, romantic destination in the Western imagination. Films and literature of the early 20th century continued to portray Granada as a place of passion, beauty, and nostalgia, echoing the essence captured in the name "Suspiro de Granada."

"Suspiro de Granada" translates to "Sigh of Granada" in English. The name evokes a sense of longing and yearning, encapsulating the melancholic yet enchanting atmosphere of Granada's landscapes and historical legacy. Myrurgia, in choosing this name for their perfume, aimed to evoke the emotions and imagery associated with Granada - a place where the past whispers through the scent of flowers and the echoes of history.

For women of the time, a perfume named "Suspiro de Granada" would resonate deeply with the romantic ideals of the era. It would evoke images of Moorish gardens, the soft fragrance of jasmine, and the passionate spirit of Spanish folklore and flamenco. Women would likely respond to the perfume with a mix of nostalgia and admiration for its evocation of Granada's beauty and allure.

The name "Suspiro de Granada" is indeed unique for a perfume, offering a distinctive blend of historical reference and poetic charm. It suggests a fragrance that not only captivates the senses but also transports the wearer to a realm of timeless romance and artistic inspiration. The word "suspiro," meaning "sigh," hints at a fragrance that elicits sighs of admiration and longing, much like the city of Granada itself did for poets and dreamers throughout history. Thus, "Suspiro de Granada" remains a timeless homage to an era and a place where beauty, history, and fragrance intertwine.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental woody fragrance for women with a heady bouquet of roses and carnations layered over spiced woods and sweet resins.

• Top notes: clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cassie, melissa lemon balm, bourbon geranium
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, orris, sandalwood, patchouli
• Base notes: vanilla, benzoin, ambergris, musk, sandalwood, cedar, civet, resins, tolu balsam

The New Yorker, 1932:

"Myrurgia: A Moi, is new, voluptuous, and fun. They do perfumes that are Spanish without being too much so: Suspiro de Granada (sandalwoody), Tu Reja (carnation), and Joya, to mention only a few.

The Real New York, 1933:

"In their shop you may buy imported Spanish perfume. The latest is "Suspiro de Granada." It comes in four sizes costing from $1.00 to $30.00 a bottle. The fragrance is heavy, sweet and exotic."

The New Yorker, 1944:

 "Suspiro de Granada (at L. & T. only) is a rose with more than a hint of carnation."

Scent Profile: 

Picture yourself standing at the Mirador de San Nicolás, a viewpoint in Granada renowned for its breathtaking vistas of the Alhambra against the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada mountains. The sun is setting, casting a golden hue over the ancient fortress and its verdant gardens below. As you take in the panoramic view, a gentle breeze carries the enchanting aroma of "Suspiro de Granada," unfolding its layers with each passing moment.

At first, the top notes tantalize your senses with a burst of spices. Clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice dance in the air, reminiscent of the exotic ingredients traded along the ancient Silk Road. Their warmth is balanced by the fresh herbal nuances of cassie and melissa lemon balm, evoking the fragrant herbs that grow in Granada's hillside gardens.

Moving closer to the Alhambra, you catch the heady bouquet of roses and carnations, blooming profusely in the Generalife gardens. The middle notes of "Suspiro de Granada" come alive with the sweet floral symphony of rose, jasmine, and carnation, their petals soft and velvety to the touch. Orris adds a powdery elegance, while sandalwood and patchouli lend a woody richness that echoes the centuries-old beams of the palace.

As twilight deepens, you descend into the Alhambra itself, where the base notes of the perfume unfold with mesmerizing depth. Vanilla and benzoin impart a comforting sweetness, like the lingering aroma of almond pastries enjoyed in Granada's quaint cafés. Ambergris and musk add a sensuous allure, reminiscent of the intimate whispers exchanged in the palace's secluded courtyards.

In the Alcazaba fortress, overlooking the city, the perfume's base notes reveal a hint of cedar and the exotic richness of tolu balsam. Civet adds a primal earthiness, grounding the fragrance in the ancient soil of Andalusia. The entire olfactory experience is akin to a journey through Granada's history and natural beauty, where each scent note tells a tale of conquest, romance, and cultural fusion.

"Suspiro de Granada" by Myrurgia captures the essence of this storied city in a bottle, offering a sensory exploration of its gardens, palaces, and timeless allure. For women of the time, this perfume would evoke a deep connection to Granada's romantic past and its enduring legacy of beauty and passion. It embodies not just a fragrance, but an emotional journey through the heart of Andalusia, leaving an indelible impression of elegance and refinement.

Harper's Bazaar, 1931:

"Myrurgia enjoys is that of being Purveyor to the Royal Family. Suspiro de Granada, with all the background of the Alhambra, was created especially for the Prince of the Asturias, and includes not only a distinguished perfume, but soap, lotion and powder. A quaint red lacquer box hat-shaped with dangling pompons, holds the perfume. Too Spanish. All these deluxe products can be had at several of the New York department stores."

Bottles:

"Suspiro de Granada," launched in 1922 by Myrurgia, was not only celebrated for its evocative fragrance but also for its exquisite packaging that reflected the essence of its inspiration, Granada. One of its most iconic presentations was in an opaque black glass bottle, designed by Julian Viard and crafted by Depinoix. The bell shaped bottle was topped with a spherical stopper intricately molded with a stylized floral motif, reminiscent of the intricate carvings found in the Alhambra itself. This design not only encapsulated the allure of Moorish artistry but also hinted at the sensual and mysterious fragrance within.

The perfume bottle was presented in a striking red Trolite (cellulose acetate, an early plastic) bell-shaped case, which simulated the look of lacquer. This is often mistaken for Bakelite (phenol formaldehyde resin, also an early plastic), however, inside the top of the bell, it is molded with the word "Trolite." This case was hand-painted with delicate black and gold flowers, echoing the floral themes of the fragrance. The presentation was further adorned with whimsical silk pompons, adding a touch of luxury and playfulness to the overall aesthetic.

The label used on the perfume box was a masterpiece created by artist Eduard Jener, known for his meticulous attention to detail and artistic flair. The label not only conveyed the brand's elegance but also served as a testament to the craftsmanship that went into every aspect of "Suspiro de Granada."

In essence, the packaging of "Suspiro de Granada" was a masterpiece in its own right, blending artistry, craftsmanship, and innovation to complement the allure of the fragrance it contained. It not only protected the precious contents but also enhanced the overall sensory experience, making it a coveted treasure among perfume connoisseurs and collectors alike.

The designer for the Suspiro de Granada soap box label shown above was the illustrator Eduard Jener.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Suspiro de Granada," a fragrance that once captured the essence of Granada's romantic allure, eventually met its fate of discontinuation, although the exact date of its discontinuation remains shrouded in mystery. Despite this, the perfume continued to weave its spell well beyond its initial launch, remaining available for purchase as late as 1944.

By the mid-20th century, "Suspiro de Granada" had already left an indelible mark on the perfume industry. Its distinctive blend of oriental woody notes, enriched with roses, carnations, and spices, continued to enchant those who sought a fragrance that evoked the elegance and passion of Old Spain. The allure of its packaging, with the opulent black glass bottle crowned by a stylized floral stopper and the striking red Bakelite case adorned with hand-painted flowers, added to its desirability.

The ongoing availability of "Suspiro de Granada" in 1944 speaks volumes about its enduring appeal and the timeless quality of its scent. It remained a cherished choice for those who appreciated its evocative power, transporting wearers to the sunlit gardens of the Alhambra or the labyrinthine streets of Granada's old quarter with each application.

While its discontinuation marked the end of an era for the perfume, its legacy lives on in the memories of those who experienced its enchanting fragrance. For collectors and enthusiasts of vintage perfumery, "Suspiro de Granada" remains a sought-after treasure, a reminder of a bygone era when perfumes were crafted with artistry and inspired by the rich cultural tapestry of Spain.